TMTMYou have made a good decision in purchasing a Hydrogenator. Properly installing and using this device will make a significant contribution to both your own well-being and the well-being of the world you live in.
For Winter/Summer installation and operational parameters CLICK HERE.
Getting started:
Note!
If you are installing the Hydrogenator on a diesel engine you must route the HHO transmission hose to a location UPSTREAM of the turbo, that is, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo, in the air-intake cowling, or into the mouth of the air intake cowling, if you can access it.
You can begin by determining where you want to locate the Hydrogenator in/on your vehicle. Then determine a path to route the HHO hose and electrical wires from the Hydrogenator device to the engine compartment. You should remember that you will most likely want to run the hose and wires together along a frame member or other similar undervehicle location where you can attach mechanic's wire or plastic ties to hold them in place. You MUST keep both the HHO transfer hose and electrical wire at least 12" from the exhaust pipes and exhaust manifold to prevent them from burning, shorting, or melting.
For inside-vehicle, in-trunk, in-truck-bed, or in-commercial-cargo-bay installations:
Once you have determined where you want to locate your Hydrogenator, find a place where you can drill one 3/4" hole for the HHO transfer line and one 3/8" hole for electrical leads to the engine compartment. Drill through the vehicle deck to the underside of the vehicle. Make sure you stay clear of the fuel tank, brake lines, and any other obstructions which would make it difficult for you to push or pull the HHO transfer hose and electrical wires through the holes you have drilled. Then either push or pull the HHO transmission hose through the 3/4" hole you drilled, providing enough slack in the hose near the Hydrogenator to allow you to re-position it conveniently when you want to fill/re-fill the electrolyte in the device. You might want to wrap the transmission Hose with duct tape or apply appropriate size split wire loom where it passes through the vehicle deck in order to reduce the possibility of eventual wear on the HHO transmission hose.
Then push or pull the two electrical wires through the 3/8" hole. It also might be a good idea to cover all the electrical wires with wire loom where they may rub against the side of the drilled holes to protect them from possible wear and shorting.
You can bundle the hose and wires together under the vehicle to make it easier to tie them up to and secure them along a frame member in the direction of the engine compartment.
Locate an area on your air-intake cowling as near the air-intake termination at the throttle throat as you can conveniently access (On diesel engines, you MUST input the HHO transmission hoses UPSTREAM from the turbo, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo). Drill a 7/16" hole. ( We suggest you remove the air-intake, or move it to a position where the drilling debris won't fall into the throttle throat or intake manifold.) Re-attach the air-intake cowling and screw a 1/8" NPT (threaded) x 3/8" hose barb (provided with your Hydrogenator) into the 7/16" hole you drilled in the air-intake. There is no need to over-tighten the fitting(s). If you strip the threads or have trouble satisfactorily affixing the fitting into the air-intake cowling, you can clean/de-grease the area around the hole(s) and use any good plastic glue, epoxy, Sumo Glue, etc., to secure the hose barb.
Attach the HHO transmission hose to the hose barb you attached to your air-intake cowling using an appropriate hose clamp (provided). You might doublecheck to be sure you have chosen a route for the hose and wire that will avoid the hot exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes as well as avoiding any moving mechanisms that would entangle, crimp, or rub the hose. Again, it would be a good idea to follow the same path as the electrical wires so the hose and the wires can be bundled with electrical or duct tape as you attach and support them with plastic ties and/or mechanics wire as they traverse along the vehicle framework between the location of the Hydrogenator and the engine compartment.
On top mount battery posts, remove the battery clamp nuts and attach the large red/yellow wire to the positive (+) post and the large green wire to the negative (-) post then re-tighten each of the nuts to hold the 2 wires in place. On side mount batteries, remove the 2 cable bolts and attach each of the large wires as instructed above, then re-tighten both of the bolts to hold the wires in place.
Locate your vehicle fuse box. Find a fused circuit that turns on/off with the ignition key. Remove the fuse and insert it into the empty fuse socket on the circuit tap that has been provided with your hydrogenator. Then insert the circuit tap back into the socket from which you removed the fuse. Then insert the small wire extending from the Hydrogenator into the butt connector attached to the circuit tap and crimp it firmly into place. This will turn the Hydrogenator on/off with the ignition key.
As an alternative, you can attach the small activation wire to the positive lead to your electric fuel pump, or to the oil pressure sensing unit, or to any other circuit that is only powered when the engine is running.
There is a manual switch on the end of the Hydrogenator that will override the ignition or any other activation power source, so the Hydrogenator can be turned off when it is desirable to have the ignition on, or the engine running, but, at the same time, the Hydrogenator turned off. Both the ignition or other activation power source and the manual switches MUST be on for the Hydrogenator to operate.
It can also be stabilized with hold-down straps, bungee cords, springs, cables, or ropes, depending upon where you locate it in your vehicle. Be sure NOT to penetrate, drill, or punch holes in any of the internal components.
IMPORTANT!
The Hydrogenator is designed to operate as a "closed" system in order for the electrolyte and HHO gases to circulate and exit the system in the hose that will transmit the HHO to the engine. When replacing or adding electrolyte to the reservoir or water to the bubbler, be sure to tighten the filler caps tight enough to prevent HHO gases and the circulating pressure from escaping. Hand tightening is usually sufficient, but if you have trouble with leaking, you can use plumber's grease or petroleum jelly or teflon tape in the threads of the cap to stop any leaks. You can use soapy water sprayed or dolloped around the cap threads to ensure they are not leaking.
Notice: Electrolyte Mixing Info. ALWAYS PRE-MIX the electrolyte in an open plastic container when adding denatured alcohol to the Sodium Hydroxide and distilled water for your winter mix. Let the mixture sit, uncontained/uncapped, for about 30 minutes before adding the mixture to the Hydrogenator device.
Always pour the water into your mixing container first, then add the sodium hydroxide to the water. Adding the water to the sodium hydroxide may cause an instant boiling or splatter upon making the initial contact between the two substances. Always wear eye protection, long sleeves, and gloves when mixing your electrolyte. Be thoughtful and safe.
The Hydrogenator device has a remarkable range of operational parameters. We strongly recommend that you do not exceed a maximum of about 17% NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) by weight, in the electrolyte mixture. With water at approximately 8.75 lbs. per gallon, that would mean we urge you not to exceed about 20 ounces, by weight, of NaOH per gallon of distilled water.
The Hydrogenator, like other pieces of equipment utilizing H2O that is exposed to below freezing elements, must be protected from freezing hard during cold weather. This can be accomplished by adding denatured or isopropyl alcohol to the distilled water and NaOH in order to achieve a 5% to 20% alcohol solution. A 5% solution (about 8 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 10º F.. A 10% solution (about 13 liquid oz. per U.S gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 0º F.. A 15% solution (about 21 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -15º F.. A 20% solution (about 28 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -25º F.
For below-freezing initial start-up: Mix 1 gallon distilled water, denatured alcohol (8 to 28 liquid oz.), and Sodium Hydroxide 20 oz. by weight, (about 20 tablespoons), in an open container and let the mixture sit open for 30 minutes before closing or transferring the mixture to a closed container. There will be an initial reaction causing the mixture to get warm and expand, so keep the mixing container open to accommodate the heating and expansion, before capping the mixing container or adding the mixture to the cells.
When the Hydrogenator requires adding replacement electrolyte for continued below-freezing operation, be sure to include 8 to 28 liquid ounces of denatured alcohol with each gallon of distilled water, along with 1 ounce by weight (about 1 tablespoon) of Sodium Hydroxide in the replacement water to maintain the 5% to 15% alcohol solution and replace any Sodium Hydroxide in the HHO generating cells, which may have been neutralized with use.
For initial electrolyte fill-up:
Add the distilled water and Sodium Hydroxide mixture (with or without denatured alcohol, per the weather conditions), filling to about 5 inches below the interior bottom thread line of the filler cap for each cell. Do not over-fill. As the electrolyte warms when current is passed through it, it expands. So leave room for expansion. Whether using a Summer or Winter electrolyte mix, ALWAYS pre-mix the electrolyte in an open plastic container and let it cool 20 to 30 minutes before adding the mix to the Hydrogenator.
Some of the internal components of the HHO generating cells need to "season" for 10 to 12 hours of usage before they reach their expected output. Several sessions of use, then non-use, will be necessary to "season" those components. If you are running the Hydrogenator om your vehicle alternator/battery, your in-dash voltmeter should drop about 1.5 volts from its maximum reading when the device is warm and working well.
Once again, when freezing weather approaches, begin adding alcohol to prevent the device from freezing hard.
Always use an open container when mixing the denatured alcohol and the Sodium Hydroxide into the distilled water, then let it sit for 30 minutes for any warming reaction to spend itself. You can pick-up the alcohol at any well supplied lumber or hardware store....in the paint department .....located with paint thinners, etc. You can pick-up Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)at any good ACE Hardware (Red Devil or Rooto Lye, drain cleaner)or order it from our website.
Do NOT use ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) in the electrolyte it will coat the interior electrolyzing components inside the HHO generating dry cells and greatly reduce the generating efficiency of the Hydrogenator.
How often you will need to replenish the electrolyte depends upon the amount of driving you do. You should check the electrolyte usage every 1500 to 2000 miles of driving. Adding an ounce (a tablespoonful)of sodium hydroxide to each gallon of replacement water should maintain the recommended water-to-sodium hydroxide mix. The sodium depletes very slowly....not at the same rate as the water in the electrolyte. If you use local tap water, as opposed to distilled water, you may need to adjust the sodium to accommodate the mineral content of the local water supply. We strongly recommend distilled water for consistency and best long-term performance of the device.
We thank you for your patronage and wish you well in the future.
The Folks at:
Hydrogenator
