TMTMYou have made a good decision in purchasing a Hydrogenator. Properly installing and using this device will make a significant contribution to both your own well-being and the well-being of the world you live in.
For Winter/Summer installation and operational parameters CLICK HERE.
Getting started:
Note!
If you are installing the Hydrogenator on a diesel engine you must route the HHO gas transmission hose to a location UPSTREAM of the turbo, that is, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo, in the air-intake cowling, or into the intake mouth of the air intake cowling, if you can access it.
You will note that there are two 3/8" hose barbs extending from the generator case and three 3/8" hose barbs extending from the reservoir case.
The lower hose barbs are designed to transmit the liquid electrolyte from the reservoir case to the generating dry cells. Attach the two lower hose barbs to each other with the 3/8" hose provided. Use the hose clamps provided to secure the hose to the hose barbs to avoid leakage. Cut the 3/8" hose to length suitable to the locations you have chosen.
The upper hose barbs are designed to pass the HHO gas from the generator case over to the reservoir/condenser case to be recycled back through the reservoirs and out through the bubbler/condenser to clear excess electrolyte from the HHO gas before transmitting the HHO to the main engine air-intake. Attach the two upper hose barbs to each other with the 3/8" hose provided. Use the hose clamps provided to secure the hose to the hose barbs to avoid leakage. Cut the 3/8" hose to length suitable to the locations you have chosen.
The middle hose barb extending from the reservoir case is designed to pass the HHO gas from the reservoir case to the main engine air-intake cowling. Attach the HHO transmission hose provided to the middle hose barb. Use the hose clamps provided to secure the hose to the hose barbs to avoid leakage. Cut the 3/8" hose to length suitable to the location you have chosen. We suggest that you do not cut the HHO transmission hose to the air-intake until you have routed the hose to the main engine compartment from the location you have chosen for the reservoir case. Then allow a little slack for moving the case into a position where you can conveniently service it when you want to refill the electrolyte.
You can begin by determining where you want to locate the Magnum Hydrogenator cases in/on your vehicle or stationary engine. Then determine a path to route the HHO hose and electrical wires from the Hydrogenator cases to the engine compartment. You should remember that you will most likely want to run the hose and wires together along a frame member or other similar undervehicle location where you can attach mechanic's wire or plastic ties to hold them in place. You MUST keep both the HHO transfer hose and electrical wire at least 12" from the exhaust pipes and exhaust manifold to prevent them from burning, shorting, or melting.
For inside-vehicle, in-trunk, in-truck-bed, or in-commercial-cargo-bay installations:
Once you have determined where you want to locate your Hydrogenator, find a place where you can drill one 3/4" hole for the HHO transfer line and one 3/8" hole for electrical leads to the engine compartment. Drill through the vehicle deck to the underside of the vehicle. Make sure you stay clear of the fuel tank, brake lines, and any other obstructions which would make it difficult for you to push or pull the HHO transfer hose and electrical wires through the holes you have drilled. Then either push or pull the HHO transmission hose through the 3/4" hole you drilled, providing enough slack in the hose near the reservoir case to allow you to re-position it conveniently when you want to fill/re-fill the electrolyte in the device reservoirs. You might want to wrap the transmission Hose with duct tape or apply appropriate size split wire loom where it passes through the vehicle deck in order to reduce the possibility of eventual wear on the HHO transmission hose.
Then push or pull the two electrical wires through the 3/8" hole. It also would be a good idea to cover all the electrical wires with wire loom where they may rub against the side of the drilled holes to protect them from possible wear and shorting.
You can bundle the hose and wires together under the vehicle to make it easier to tie them up to and secure them alongside a frame member in the direction of the engine compartment.
Locate an area on your air-intake cowling . On diesel engines, you MUST input the HHO transmission hoses UPSTREAM from the turbo, on the LOW PRESSURE side of the turbo. Drill a 7/16" hole. We suggest you remove the air-intake, or move it to a position where the drilling debris won't fall into the throttle throat or intake manifold. Re-attach the air-intake cowling and screw a 1/4" NPT (threaded) x 3/8" hose barb (provided with your Hydrogenator) into the 7/16" hole you drilled in the air-intake. There is no need to over-tighten the fitting(s). If you strip the threads or have trouble satisfactorily affixing the fitting into the air-intake cowling, you can clean/de-grease the area around the hole(s) and use any good plastic glue, epoxy, Sumo Glue, etc., to secure the hose barb.
Attach the HHO transmission hose to the hose barb you attached to your air-intake cowling using an appropriate hose clamp (provided). You might doublecheck to be sure you have chosen a route for the hose and wire that will avoid the hot exhaust manifold and exhaust pipes as well as avoiding any moving mechanisms that would entangle, crimp, or rub the hose. Again, it would be a good idea to follow the same path as the electrical wires so the hose and the wires can be bundled with electrical or duct tape as you attach and support them with plastic ties and/or mechanic's wire as they traverse along the vehicle framework between the location of the Hydrogenator reservoir and the engine compartment.
On top mount battery posts, remove the battery clamp nuts and attach the large red/yellow wire to the positive (+) post and the large green wire to the negative (-) post then re-tighten each of the nuts to hold the 2 wires in place. On side mount batteries, remove the 2 cable bolts and attach each of the large wires as instructed above, then re-tighten both of the bolts to hold the wires in place.
Locate your vehicle fuse box. Find a fused circuit that turns on/off with the ignition key. Remove the fuse and insert it into the empty fuse socket on the circuit tap that has been provided with your hydrogenator. Then insert the circuit tap back into the socket from which you removed the fuse. Then insert the small wire extending from the Hydrogenator into the butt connector attached to the circuit tap and crimp it firmly into place. This will turn the Hydrogenator on/off with the ignition key.
As an alternative, you can attach the small activation wire to the positive lead to your electric fuel pump, or to the oil pressure sensing unit, or to any other circuit that is only powered when the engine is running.
IMPORTANT!
The Hydrogenator is designed to operate as a "closed" system in order for the electrolyte and HHO gases to circulate and exit the system in the hose that will transmit the HHO to the engine. When replacing or adding electrolyte to the reservoir, be sure to tighten the filler cap tight enough to prevent HHO gases and the circulating pressure from escaping. Hand tightening is usually sufficient, but if you have trouble with HHO leakage, you can use plumber's grease or petroleum jelly or teflon tape in the threads of the filler cap to stop any leaks. You can use soapy water sprayed or dolloped around the cap threads while the Hydrogenator is running to ensure they are not leaking.
Notice: Electrolyte Mixing Info.
The Hydrogenator device has a remarkable range of operational parameters. We strongly recommend that you do not exceed a maximum of 1 ounce of sodium hydroxide (about 1 rounded teaspoon) per gallon of distilled water. Stir the mixture to help dissolve the NaOH, then let the mixture sit, uncontained/uncapped, for about 20 minutes before adding the mixture to the Hydrogenator device. The normal loss of water and warming of the electrolyte due to use will gradually increase the concentration and subsequently increase the amperage draw as the dry cells run. Our automatic resetting internal current delimiters, factory installed into each unit, will cap the amperage draw at an acceptable level.
Always pour the water into your plastic mixing container first, then add the sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to the water. Adding the water to the sodium hydroxide may cause an instant boiling or splatter upon making the initial contact between the two substances. Always wear eye protection, long sleeves, and gloves when mixing your electrolyte. Be thoughtful and safe.
ALWAYS PRE-MIX the electrolyte in an open plastic container when adding denatured alcohol to the Sodium Hydroxide and distilled water for your winter mix. Let the mixture sit, uncontained/uncapped, for about 20 minutes before adding the mixture to the Hydrogenator device.
The Hydrogenator, like other pieces of equipment utilizing H2O that is exposed to below freezing elements, must be protected from freezing hard during cold weather. This can be accomplished by adding denatured or isopropyl alcohol to the distilled water and NaOH in order to achieve a 5% to 20% alcohol solution. A 5% solution (about 8 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 10º F.. A 10% solution (about 13 liquid oz. per U.S gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about 0º F.. A 15% solution (about 21 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -15º F.. A 20% solution (about 28 liquid oz. per U.S. gallon) will protect against a hard freeze down to about -25º F.
For below-freezing initial start-up: Mix 1 gallon distilled water, denatured alcohol (8 to 28 liquid oz.), and Sodium Hydroxide, 1 oz. by weight, (1 rounded teaspoon), in an open container and let the mixture sit open for 20 minutes before closing or transferring the mixture to a closed container. There will be an initial reaction causing the mixture to get warm and expand, so keep the mixing container open to accommodate the heating and expansion, before capping the mixing container or adding the mixture to the cells.
When the Hydrogenator requires adding replacement electrolyte for continued below-freezing operation, be sure to include 8 to 28 liquid ounces of denatured alcohol with each gallon of distilled water, along with about 1/2 teaspoon of Sodium Hydroxide in the replacement water to maintain the 5% to 15% alcohol solution and replace any Sodium Hydroxide in the HHO generating cells, which may have been neutralized with use.
For initial electrolyte fill-up:
Add the distilled water and Sodium Hydroxide mixture (with or without denatured alcohol, per the weather conditions), filling to about 2/3 of the capacity of the electrolyte reservoir. Do not overfill. As the electrolyte warms when current is passed through it, it expands and gasifies. So leave room for expansion. Whether using a Summer or Winter electrolyte mix, ALWAYS pre-mix the electrolyte in an open plastic container and let it cool 20 minutes before adding the mix to the Hydrogenator.
Some of the internal components of the HHO generating cells need to "season" for 10 to 12 hours of usage before they reach their expected output. Several sessions of use, then non-use, will be necessary to "season" those components. By running the Hydrogenator om your vehicle alternator/battery, your in-dash voltmeter should drop about 1.5 volts from its maximum reading when the device is warm and working well.
Once again, when freezing weather approaches, begin adding alcohol to prevent the device from freezing hard. Don't forget to add some alcohol to the bubbler to keep if from freezing hard.
Always use an open plastic container when mixing the denatured or isopropyl alcohol and the Sodium Hydroxide into the distilled water, then let it sit for 20 minutes for any warming reaction to spend itself. You can pick-up the denatured alcohol at any well supplied lumber or hardware store....in the paint department .....located with paint thinners, etc. You can pick-up Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH)at any good Hardware or builder's supply store (Red Devil or Rooto Lye, drain cleaner)or order it from our website.
Do NOT use ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) in the electrolyte it will coat and clog the interior electrolyzing components inside the HHO generating dry cells and greatly reduce the generating efficiency of the Hydrogenator, or even eliminate the generation of HHO altogether. Using ethylene glycol in the electrolyte will void your warranty.
How often you will need to replenish the electrolyte depends upon the amount of driving you do.
You should check the electrolyte usage every 12 to 15 hours of driving. Adding 1/2 a teaspoonspoonful of sodium hydroxide to each gallon of replacement water should maintain the recommended water-to-sodium hydroxide mix. The sodium depletes very slowly....not at the same rate as the water in the electrolyte. If you use local tap water, as opposed to distilled water, you may need to adjust the sodium to accommodate the mineral content of the local water supply. We strongly recommend distilled water for consistency and best long-term performance of the device.
NOTICE!
If you have convenient access to food quality potassium hydroxide, you may utilize the potassium hydroxide in lieu of sodium hydroxide. The potassium hydroxide is virtually permanent in the electrolyte. You would only have to RARELY use any potassium hydroxide in your replacement electrolyte. You can use plain distilled water (+ alcohol, in winter freezing conditions) for your refills.
We thank you for your patronage and wish you well in the future.
The Folks at:
Hydrogenator
